Perrelet's Turbine design has always been about motion and activity that promotes a truly distinctive wrist presence. The dial has two levels, a background and a spinning "turbine" disk that reacts to the subtle motion of lifting your wrist to check the time. That motion kicks the turbine into action and it spins, as though propelled by a jet engine. I had seen this on the original Turbine pieces and the way that Perrelet has preserved this cool design while incorporating a chronograph is really fantastic.
The chronograph will be a bi-compax chronograph that measures a full 12 hours. That means the watch will have no running seconds hand, unless you have the chronograph function going all the time. The dial has been redesigned to incorporate the subdials, and is finally totally symmetrical. Cartier also moved the minute scale ring out to the flange ring - an area that was previously bare with just a brushed metal finish. This changes the look of the watch and also has the effect of making the dial appear larger. The dial is now able to have larger, more distinct hour markers, which once again take the form of half Roman numerals and half baton markers (is this Cartier's version of a California dial?). You have the same type of decor on the dial, but everything feels more grounded given the symmetrical design. Cartier retained the "expanded" date window, but moved it to 6 o'clock. All in all I like the dial a lot, but one again feel that Cartier designed the main hands to be a bit too short.
Overall, this is a well made watch in versatile style for the man wanting a modern size. I'd suggest looking at the other dial colors as well, as the polished hands on silver dials are sometimes hard to read, the darker dials should be more legible Price is ,500. jeanrichard.com
3. Wait until the giveaway is over on May 31, 2013 for the winner to be chosen at random.
Citizen has long been a supporter of the Blue Angels team, so this watch is the latest in a long line. Long before I was writing here, I asked my wife to buy me one as I was learning to fly, so a Blue Angels was my first pilot's watch:
The new brand is eponymously called "Savoy" and as of now, features one core design around the "Icon" model - which comes in various styles and sizes. Savoy reached out to aBlogtoWatch wanting us to review their pieces, so I checked with the team to see who was up for it. With a less than conservative design and Swiss quartz movements, this was a fashion versus tool watch so our guys didn't really jump at the chance to check it out. The Savoy website was (maybe still is) rather wonky and it wasn't really easy to understand what the pieces were all about. Savoy insisted, so I took it upon myself to get some face time with a duo of Icon watches. The Icon Light was for my lady, and I spent some time with the Icon Extreme.
"I imagined what MB&F would have been if I was born in 1876 versus 1976. The Legacy Machine is not the Horological Machine (the name given to MB&F's thus released watches). The Legacy Machine collection is a total departure from what we have been designing until now." Max isn't kidding. Most all MB&F watches have been directly inspired by things Busser idolized as a child. Everything from planes, cars, and science fiction have been represented in HM1 through HM5 watches. The LM1 watch (debuted here) is profoundly different. It had a round case, classic design, and more traditional execution. Max Busser seemed to have made the anti-MB&F; a high-end watch that oddly enough might be considered to compete with contemporaries such as F.P Journe or Breguet. And it was of course a beauty.
The non-limited Ball for BMW watch is the Power Reserve model. This piece has arguably the most complex dial, but is also very appealing in its design. Note how different Ball for BMW watches look better with either a light or dark colored dial. The Power Reserve has a deep dial with a power reserve indicator thanks to its Chronometer Certified Swiss ETA 2897 automatic movement. Again on this model the relatively thin bezel of the entire range helps the dial look as large and impressive as possible.
In the '60s, Helmut Sinn was a pilot who wasn't happy with the watches he was finding in the market, and decided to create his own. Additionally, he decided he wanted to sell direct to the consumer, cutting out the costs the "middle man" imposed. In may ways, it seems that Mr. Sinn was the forefather of our modern trend of online-only boutique brands that are creating watches today.
For the most part, the Calobra Limited Edition is mostly the Artix GT chronograph with some cosmetic changes, but they are important changes in my opinion. The standard Artix GT Chronograph has quite small baton style hour markers that are applied to the dial. In my opinion they are perhaps a bit too small and throw off the balance of the design. The piece is certainly classy looking, but I feel as though it cannot decide whether it wants to be a racing watch or a casual dress watch. With the Calobra, Oris goes full throttle sport watch, and with excellent results.
The limited edition pocket watches are also interesting. Each of the ref. 982 style pocket watches contains Patek Philippe's caliber 1-17 LEP PS IRM manually would movement with a power reserve indicator on the dial. You don't see these too often and there are a slew of them at the Maison Patek Philippe. Each of the pocket watches is done in Chinese style with both language and architectural cues (such as the design of the ring over the crown). The dials feature Chinese character numerals as well beautifully hand-painted and engraved dials and casebacks.
I have always been interested in compass watches in some form or another due to a latent survivalist mentality that wanted to anticipate what equipment I would need in a disaster scenario. Aside from food and water, a compass watch would always be in the mix, so that I could, in my hypothetical emergency, find my way somewhere to safety.
We get a lot of requests to write about "more affordable" watches - which is tough as we are such high-brow snobs. Having said that, aBlogtoWatch is produced by regular people whose budgets are probably closer to beer than champagne much of the time. So, here are a couple of watches from Bianci.
Tissot has teamed up with their Swatch family sibling, ETA, to produce a new movement for a range of budget-minded automatic watches. The new range has been dubbed the Tissot Luxury Automatic and will include both ladies' and gents' models with an option for COSC certification. With pricing that falls squarely between stiff competition from Citizen below and Tag Heuer above, do these new Tissot models have what it takes to be a hit with casual buyers?
Zeitwinkel's flagship model is the 273°, a 42.5mm everyday dress watch that boasts multiple complications backed by their ZW 0103 in-house movement. The 273° uses a steel case with both brushed and polished finishing that measures 13.8 mm thick including the domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal. The display case back also features a sapphire crystal that offers a clear view of the 273°'s fully decorated movement and skeletonized rotor.
Where, you ask, is the 30-minute chronograph? Well, the second hand is the second register, and flip the watch over to see...
OI: Good question. Yes I already have an idea about a mechanism where I found a A.Manzoni & Fils patent, dating back to 1892. It has to do with a repetition mechanism, but I do not want to reveal much more just yet. And of course we want to redo table clocks with the 8 day power reserve mechanism that I discovered….
Max here: Generally, investing in watches is a bad idea in my opinion. This is not to say that watches do not appreciate in value or that some watches from a few brands retain or exceed their retail value, it's simply that there are many other investment opportunity that are more predictable and of better value than timepieces.
One of the nicest features of the Islandus 44mm is the honey brown alligator strap. I actually mistook it for ostrich given its textures, but this is indeed a cut of alligator. The straps is not at all too stiff and very comfortable. I really don't care much for super stiff straps that you need to break in and prefer these much more. JS Watch pieces are not terribly expensive, good looking, and easy pick-up-and-go classic looking watches. If you find the Iceland connection neat then that is a plus as well. Price starts at 2,250 Euros, but for non-Iceland residents the price is 1,800 Euros without the 20% VAT. jswatch.com
This might be one of the first times I have really discussed a De Ville model on aBlogtoWatch. Mostly because some of the older models aren't to my taste. Which is ironic because the first ever Omega I owned was a vintage hand-wound De Ville from the 1970s. When I saw the new Co-Axial Chronograph models at Baselworld 2012, I knew Omega had a relative hit. My problem with the older non-three hand men's De Ville models was that they seemed to lack a cohesive design, and were unsuccessfully asymmetrical in their appearance.
A few years ago I noticed a vintage Cartier watch that looked as though it had been melted. I barely believed it was real. It didn't have a name or details, but I realized something must have been special about it. I later learned that it was a Cartier Crash. Originally produced in 1967 and later in the early 1990s as a limited edition, this extremely rare watch is a testament to emotion influencing design and the oddity that is the luxury world. Cartier will release a new limited edition collection of the Crash watch for 2013 as a high-end jewelry piece on a bracelet. While this new edition is a vast departure from the theme of the original, it is interesting to see Cartier continue the legend of the Crash.
According to Roger Dubuis, the power reserve mechanism is new. It rotates once each five hours or so in combination with a normal hand. It is just that the normal hand has two sides to show the power reserve "twice." It is difficult to explain but the video helps illuminate how it works better. What advantages it haves over "normal" power reserve indicators is a bit lost to me, but I was nevertheless impressed. I mentioned that Roger Dubuis watches are theatrical. The Quatuor is a good example in the already showy Excalibur collection.