Speedy Tuesday Event Photo Report

Blancpain Tribute To Fifty Fathoms Aqua Lung Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Movement : CYR598 automatic, 4Hz, 28,800vph

CALIBRE FLY11:
Dimensions: 26.6 x 46.4 x 11.94 mm
Number of parts: 419
Number of jewels: 64
Power reserve: 50+ hours
Barrels: Dual barrels:
- One for the movement gear train
- One for the time indications
The tourbillon movement and the time indication gear trains each have their own independent energy supply to optimize power distribution and duration.

Most Mickey Mouse Rolex dials where in Oyster Date and other similar models. Each where in steel and about 35-36mm wide. Back then these would have been men's models. Today they are best for women and children - as well as other avid collectors. I for one think that these are really cool, and a testament to the immense merchandising power that Disney had (and still has to a large degree).

At the same time, they don't wear big due to the thickness of the bezel and the large sized hands and hour markers. They are so big, that they act to dwarf the size of the watch a bit. See what I mean? Drastically different than the outgoing Superocean watches, they show a new way of looking at Breitling dive timepieces. I was pretty drawn to them when I first learned about them many months ago, but didn't want to write about them until I got my hands on the watches. Well I did, and now that I have annoyed Breitling enough with my watch nerdery, I wanted to share my impressions (it is funny when you meet with a brand as a journalist/blogger - whatever, that actually is really into watches. They are sometimes weirded out when you actually look at the watch in details, ask questions, etc...).

Schofield Signalman GMT Watches Watch Releases

I believe that Tag Heuer SLR collection started back in the mid 2000's, and since then there have been several models. All forward looking in style. For 2010 Tag Heuer released a limited edition retro model with the Carrera Chronograph Calibre 1887 300 SLR limited edition piece that you can read about here. Of the previous style limited edition models this Tag Heuer SLR Calibre 17 chronograph model is my favorite. Clean lines in a functional case with a design that is reminiscent of the car. Though a few other models such as one with an almost cushion style case mirror looks of the car even more.

For fun the chronograph pushers look a bit like engine pistons. On the rear of the watch is Jacky Ickx signature and some limited edition graphics. For the record, I think that almost every Jacky Ickx watch (from and brand) has his signature on the dial or elsewhere on the watch. I am not sure of the exact movement inside of these pieces. According to Chopard they are built on a Swiss ETA 2892 automatic base with a chronograph and big date module. The movements have power reserves of 40 hours and are COSC Chronometer certified. In addition to the 24 hour chronograph and big date, you should know that the chronograph has a flyback function and the time is a stop seconds (which means the seconds stop when you pull out the crown).

Tech specs from Perrelet:



A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Helson Blackbeard Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

No expense really seems to have been saved in the design and construction of this watch. Even the rubber strap is all Swiss made. Even if you don't like the aesthetic choices of Nubeo watches, I challenge you to find one and tell me that it isn't a well made timepiece. Nubeo for me was the first brand that made me want to buy a case and not care what movement was inside (though I am perfectly content with the 7750 inside of it). There are about 300 pieces of this Nubeo Arctic Snowmobile Adventure watch around. Not sure of the original price but it was in the ,000 - ,000 range if I recall correctly. For me items like this are why I got into watches in the first place.

Rado D-Star Basel Special 2011 Watch

Rado D-Star Basel Special 2011 Watch

My conversation with Ellicott ended well, I think. An invitation to view the watches was finally realized and I got to get some hands-on time with the pieces. By the way, the Mach One Skymaster Aviator is very nice with its carbon case and slick look.

Ellicott Majesty Watches Hands-On  Hands-On

Dial is clean and is covered with a sapphire crystal. I like the easy to read dial layout which actually feels like a design precursor of the new Carrera Calibre 1887 models. See what I mean? Inside the watch is a Calibre 17 movement, which is a Tag Heuer personalized Swiss ETA 2894 automatic chronograph. Of course, what is really unique is how Mercedes-Benz shares (even dominates in terms of placement) the dial with the Tag Heuer logo.

Much of the watch says "diver." The case is water resistant to 300 meters and even has screw down pushers and a crown. It has a 5mm thick sapphire crystal and also comes with a water-proof "NyTech" textile strap. Deivas also throws in a NATO strap. So basically it is a modern retro racer diver with all the boldness of a neon diner signage.

At night, however, the watch is superbly lumed:

The Glycine Incursore II model (ref. 3901)  is that with the manually wound movement, and the III (ref. 3900) has the automatic. Each comes in a 44mm wide steel case (100 meters water resistant) with an available metal bracelet or thick leather strap. Each watch has a few dial options. A "standard" minimalistic model with a mix of Arabic and baton hour markers, and a "California dial" that mixes Roman and Arabic numerals. Which do you prefer? Note the different hands on each.

You'll be surprised to learn that in addition to the time, date, and 1/1000 of a second chronograph, the watch has a world time function and alarm. The world time function is neat, because it uses the upper left subdial to show you the reference time. In fact, you can choose to have the reference time on the main dial, and the second time zone on the little subdial. Again, consult the manual for this. Easily the neatest part about operating the watch is the 1/1000th of a second chronograph. When operating the hands are all flying about rapidly. It is an intense little feat of engineering, and relies of five different small motors. Though reading the measured time isn't that easy as it uses all the dials to measure the time, and you need to know how to read them. You also need pretty good vision to see all the little numbers. Seeing the miniature ballet of hands moving around never seems to get old.

Screwed open back cover with anti-reflective treatment

Not long ago Mathias was finally able to complete the Antikythera, miniaturizing the concept of the original into a wrist watch. And only Buttet's version actually tells the time and has a tourbillon. The man just LOVES tourbillons. It also runs by itself whereas the original needed to be hand-cranked. Hublot announced that no Antikythera movements will ever be sold. They anticipate making 3-4 of them and selling them (via auction) for charity. The sale of which I believe will benefit the Musée des Arts et Métiers in Paris (a really cool museum that focuses on the history of machines).

To be honest when I first checked out this Saxonia Dual Time watch I didn't give it much attention. It was nice, but didn't really look like the A. Lange & Sohne watches I was used to. I was frankly more interested in the Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Merite as well as the Zeitwerk Striking. It was only after returning to the watch later on did I realize that it was a really nicely done dual time watch. The movement is all Lange, but the dial feels a bit like something else. It is quite minimalist for the brand, and the dual time function is easy to adjust. All that Lange engineering, but telling people it is one will result in a double-take.

Hublot King Power Unico GMT Watch Watch Releases

Harry Winston Ocean Sport Collection Watches Watch Releases

At once elegant and mysteriously absent of text or logo, the Ochs and Junior selene tinta is a very different watch indeed. Hours, minutes, seconds, date and of course the most accurate moon phase you get in a mechanical watch, all done with the elegant minimalism of Ludwig Oechslin:
Ochs Und Junior Selene Tinta Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Ulysse Nardin Alexander The Great Minute Repeater Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts Watch Hands-On Hands-On

- seconds indication;

Case-back of Monaco: Rock the Rock engraving — unique piece representing the Rock

One person said something interesting to me about how they didn't like the metal crown and pushers as matched to the ceramic case. They felt the ceramic look was incomplete. I see their point but it doesn't bother me. The truth is IWC really can't do that. Machining ceramic is a pain in the ass, and the technology doesn't yet exist for tiny ceramic pieces with intricate details like crowns and pushers to be made in any cost effective manner. As it stands these watches use grade 5 titanium for the crowns, pushers, and casebacks.