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Antoine Martin Slow Runner Watch Has Largest Escapement
11 Commentsby Ariel Adams
Antoine Martin Slow Runner Watch Has Largest Escapement
Past that, many of the brands in the segment are smaller startups, which may (or may not) give the casual consumer some pause, wondering if the brand will be around in a few years to provide warranty service on the watch. For those folks, a watch carrying the Sony logo on it is likely some comfort.
Hublot includes a feature on the watch first seen in the Big Bang Ferrari watches from last year. That is the new locking crown system. Similar to what is used on some Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor watches, rather than having a screw-down crown, it has a locked and unlocked position. Inside the watch is the Hublot caliber HUB 4248 automatic chronograph movement. This movement has a centrally mounted 48 minute chronograph, subsidiary seconds dial, and the date. It offers an acceptable feature set, while also providing a good view of the movement through the dial. 48 minutes of course is the length of a basketball game.
"I always wore two watches during the [Gulf] war. The one on my left arm was set on Saudi Arabian time and the Seiko on my right arm was set on Eastern Standard Time. That way I could quickly glance at my watches and instantly know the time in both Saudi Arabia and Washington, D.C. Sincerely, H. Norman Schwarzkopf General, U.S. Army, Retired." Words from recently departed General Norman Schwarzkopf in a letter to the Antiquorum auction house in the late 1990s when he donated one his watches for a charity auction.
For 2013 Bell & Ross will once again offer up a few new "Aviation Instrument" themed collection of watches based on the BR 01 (BR01) case. I believe this is the third or fourth year of doing so and it began with pieces like the BR 01 Compass and then the BR 01 Radar watch. The concept of the piece is to be even more directly "instrument" inspired even though the Bell & Ross BR 01 is called the "Instrument." Having said that, the standard BR 01 watches are straightforward standard watch dials while the Aviation Instrument collection are a bit more "interpretive."
aBlogtoWatch will return to the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair this September to once again explore the world of watches from a more Eastern perspective. The largest show of its kind, the Hong Kong watch show is an amazing "Timepiece Extravaganza" (their words) that better reflects the broader watch market compared to the mostly high-end demographic that we tend to focus on when covering Baselworld or SIHH.
The luminal space where emotion ends and where business begins is perhaps what this law aims to make concrete. Lots of economic interest rides on it, both for the Swiss and for foreign watch companies wanting to get a piece of the "Swiss Made" action by routing some of their production through Switzerland. Basically, it is a protective measure on behalf of the more "Swiss Made" brands to push out or reduce the relevancy of the less "Swiss Made" brands.
As part of Zenith's focus on their Pilot watch collection for 2013, one of the new models is this Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT watch. Also new for 2013 is the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar. Both the Annual Calendar and the GMT use existing Zenith movements. In fact, we see very little new movements these days from the major brands. Movement development is extremely expensive and time consuming. It is often best to extend the life of successful movements by dressing them up in different ways, in different watches. Zenith of course is among the true in-house movement makers.
The main reason for Seiko to update the SKX Monsters (which are still quite popular) was to include a new movement as the caliber 7S26 had grown a little old and many owners wanted hacking (where the second hand stops when the crown is pulled out) and hand winding (rather than just automatic winding). The new SRP range is powered by the Seiko caliber 4R36 which is a step up from the 7S26, featuring both hacking and hand winding, while still retaining the day and date display of the 7S26. The 4R36 is a 24 jewel movement which runs at 21,600 vph with a power reserve of 41 hours.
When "Watch Radar" sent me an e-mail about their new iPhone app that is able to detect the name of a watch just by looking at the dial I was intrigued. Until now we've all had to read the name of a brand on a watch dial to know what it is - but no longer. Finally technology has come to the rescue. Using the camera on your iPhone, the Chinese made Watch Radar app takes a picture of the said watch and uses its whiz-bang technology to scan the internet and read the name for you. Wow! It even goes so far as to pull data from the net and give you some brand history. Now this is the future.
Can you figure out how to operate the watch just by playing with it and your good instincts? Yes and no. For example there is a thermometer feature in the watch. You'd probably never know it unless you read about it in the instructions. Push the upper pusher to activate it and the hands move to special positions to give you a temperature readout. The seconds hand tells you whether it is plus or minus, and the hour and minute hands tell you the temperature. Only issue is that you don't know how to read the hands unless you consult the manual. Without a guide on how to read the thermometer, most people would have no idea what the watch was trying to tell them. I suppose Casio can't clutter up the dial too much, but this is where a little LCD display would be really useful. There is a price to pay for all these functions and a lack of digital display.
Size-wise, the Fossil Swiss Automatic is rather on the modest side at 38mm wide in a steel case. There is also a version with a steel metal bracelet which isn't too bad. The design of the watch is really not objectionable (though a few extra millimeters on the case would have been good), it is just the overall lack of soul which gets to me. In terms of this much remarked upon Swiss movement, Fossil is equally unclear on where it comes from. They call it the caliber STP-1-11 which is nothing I've ever heard of. Visually it looks like an ETA 2824 automatic but I doubt Fossil was able to get many of those. I have a feeling it is some manner of 2824 clone. At least Fossil doesn't hide the view to it on the rear of the watch. So all-in-all there you have it: the first Fossil Swiss watch with a mystery Swiss movement, impotent messaging; an acceptably saleable style; and perhaps not nearly what a brand like Fossil could accomplish with its vast resources and experience. Price is 5. fossil.com
The most interesting aspect of the 43mm wide steel case is that it is produced from a solid piece of steel. This monobloc-style design uses a few screws on the caseback with a crystal over the dial. Aside from those and the crown, the case is just one piece. Accessing the watch is thus done through the crystal. This gives the case a more elegant look, but likely makes battery changes or servicing the movement a bit more complicated. Such one-piece designs are mostly intended to help prevent water and dust from entering the inner case. In this instance I think it is mostly a matter of design as the BN0095 has a rather basic 50 meters of water resistance. But don't disregard design... the BN0095 collection is the winner of both an IF (International Forum) Design Award, and a RedDot Design Award (each in 2012).
Ball’s Engineer Hydrocarbon watches are arguably their most recognizable, thanks to the prominent and unique crown guard. Earlier, we showed you the Engineer Hydrocarbon Airborne and this time round, we are looking at its DLC sibling, the Engineer Hydrocarbon Black. With a black DLC case, this new watch is perhaps Ball’s most stealthy one yet and the ETA 2892-2 movement within also features the brand’s new SpringLock shock protection system.
The movement is visually spectacular, with a full balance bridge and rotor both executed in 18k gold, twin barrels, spiral Geneva wave decoration.
2013 sees three versions of the 1815 Up/Down. You can get the watch in 18k pink gold (ref. 234.032), 18k yellow gold (ref. 234.021), and 18k white gold (ref. 234.026). Each has blued-steel hands and solid silver dial. I really like how Lange tends to order their gold cases polished. There is a sort of antique quality to it. Rather than the perfect mirror polish of many gold watch surfaces, these have the finish of silver tabletop items that a maid has been hand polishing for years. The middle of the case is further brushed in order to prevent the case from looking too ordinary. Subtle styling on the lugs helps them flare with grace.